Summer Social at Y Plough and Dahlias with Joseph Atkin; Updated Autumn Programme; Ty-r Maes Charity Plant Sale

This year’s Summer Social – Pizzas and Plants – was held at Y Plough in Felingwm, a pub now owned by Joseph Atkin, previously Head Gardener at Aberglasney Gardens and Rachael Garside.

The social was very well attended by members and guests, and judging by the photographs a fine time was had by all! There was an imaginative choice of large and delicious pizzas cooked in an outdoor wood-fired pizza oven.

Feeling very full, it was time to listen to Joseph tell us about one of his favourite plants – dahlias, very topical for the time of year. Joseph stressed that he was giving us a gardener’s view of what he thinks is one of the very best plants for the huge selection (4,500 varieties), the range of colours (everything except blue) and their flowering season (from June until the first frosts). The only downside is that they are quite a lot of work! Joseph had two pieces of advice for us – spend some time doing your research to choose ones you really like, and don’t grow too many!

You can grow dahlias in pots, put them in troughs, or grow directly in the ground. They need super-rich, really good soil. Joseph has even grown them in pure manure! A sunny aspect is best, with a bit of shelter. Joseph thinks that the tall types of dahlia are best – as then the flowers are at the right height to be enjoyed – but they will need staking.

Fergus Garrett from Great Dixter plants his dahlias six inches deep, and leaves them in the soil over winter with frost protection. In Wales it is best to either bring the pots in or lift the tubers for the winter, because of the wet we experience and the slugs – although if you want to try leaving them outside then the tubers should be mound-planted.At Aberglasney, they overwinter the tubers inside, and then get them going early in the spring in the greenhouse. In autumn, when you dig up the tubers, cut off the foliage and leave upside down in a dark shed for two weeks. Then shake off the old soil, and plant into compost in crates, pots or hessian sacks (anything with good drainage). Cover with cardboard and they can be left for the whole winter, until late February or early March, but remember to keep the compost slightly moist.

The spring, when they start shooting, is the time to take cuttings. You will find that one shoot, as a cutting, will make a much bigger, better plant than an old tuber. The reason is that there is only so much energy in a tuber, and so that limits the size of the plant; whereas a new cutting will just grow and grow, and only start to make a tuber later. Cuttings are very fast to root (48 hours is the fastest that Joseph has rooted a dahlia cutting!). He uses a fungicidal spray, and puts the cutting into a pot of compost covered with a plastic bag on a window sill (rather than a greenhouse). Once rooted, keep watering the plants steadily in spring until there is a reasonable amount of growth. Cuttings and tubers can be planted out in May, but should be covered if frosty weather is forecast. Add organic matter when planting out, and put three stakes in a triangle around the plant ready to support it later. Slugs are the biggest enemy, so Joseph likes to make sure his plants are as big as possible before planting out, about one to two feet tall. Then just keep them watered, and deadhead them for a fantastic, long-lasting display.

Joseph noted that the popularity of dahlias has grown tremendously since 2008 and that as a consequence dahlia production has become very commercialised, which can lead to inferior plants becoming available, particularly if raised from seed. His strong recommendation is that, as dahlias are so much work, we should only buy really good ones with an Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. Make sure to buy named varieties; exhibition dahlias will always give you height, but there are also plenty of good garden dahlias as well. In short, choose any AGM dahlia varieties with shapes and colours that you like, and remember that you don’t need many to fill a reasonable-sized bed or border.

Dahlias are great for combining with other plants. The leaves with dark or bronze foliage are particularly useful in colour schemes, and you can have great fun combining the colours and shapes of the flowers with other plants. The pompom or cactus shapes contrast really well with the spire shapes of other plants.

At Aberglasney, dahlias are grown in with the vegetables to really tighten up the look of the kitchen garden. In the autumn Dahlia ‘Downham Royal’ makes a stunning contrast in a border against a fiery background of Boston ivy. Basically, there is a dahlia for every colour scheme! In a border, they need to be in the middle, or further back, not in the front of a border. They also look good in pots – but it should be a really big pot with rich soil/compost. Raised beds are also good.

Asked about dividing tubers, Joseph explained that trying to ensure you get a growing shoot with part of the tuber is a bit of a nightmare. In his view, it is much easier and better to take cuttings in the spring.

Joseph was thanked appreciatively for both the delicious pizzas and his entertaining and informative talk.


Updated Autumn Programme

The Club’s autumn 2025 programme has now been updated on the website. Our next meeting on Wednesday, 17 September at 7.30pm will be an opportunity for members to reflect on our gardening year so far – what’s worked and what hasn’t in our gardens, which  garden club talks and activities have we enjoyed the most, and what would we like to see in the Club’s programmes going forward? The usual tea, coffee and biscuits will be provided, along with some extra non-alcoholic drink choices. Please bring nibbles to share as well.

The Events page on the website has also been updated and your attention is drawn to the West Wales Country Gardeners’ Autumn Plant Fair on 13 September.


Ty’r Maes Charity Plant Sale

Our very own John and Helen Brooks are holding their annual plant sale for charity on Sunday, 28 September from 1pm at Ty-r Maes, Ffarmers, Carmarthenshire SA19 8JP (but please use SA19 8DP to locate the property with SatNav). Entry to the plant sale is free, there will be tea and biscuits, as well as loads of plants for sale. All proceeds from the plant sale go to NGS charities.


Pelargoniums and Geraniums by Mair Evans; Upcoming Events

Mair firstly explained the differences between Pelargoniums and Geraniums –  Pelargoniums are tender and originated in the Southern hemisphere (they are endemic to Australia and New Zealand ),  whereas Geraniums are hardy and herbaceous, can be found in borders and come from the Northern hemisphere.

We had a quiz to find out who knew the difference between the two, with Mair holding up different potted plants to see if we knew whether they were Pelargoniums or Geraniums, and quite a few people did know it seems.

The name ‘Geranium’ for Pelargoniums comes from St Helena where the “Valley of Geraniums” can be found; it was given the name by Napoleon when he was exiled there, because it reminded him of the valleys of hardy geraniums in Europe. The land on St Helena was constantly shifting and the plants could be found even in the dunes which would not normally be a favoured habitat for them. They were then almost extinct there, when the trade routes were opened by the British East India and the Dutch East India shipping companies. The ships berthed in South Africa to load provisions, found the Pelargoniums and were keen to ship them back to Europe because apparently they were thought to be a cure for dysentery.  In the early 18th century, they would flower in January, February and March, but were nothing like the Pelargoniums we know now and were quite scruffy with a strange scent, growing out of rocks and very tough. The Dutch particularly collected them and took them back to Holland with them.

There are now thousands of different cultivars of Pelargonium and a lot of research is carried out. Trials involving thousands of varieties, the numbers of which are whittled down to about six, are done to ensure that the required characteristics and disease resistance are present in the chosen handful.

When keeping our own Pelargoniums, the plants can get very leggy in the winter so cuttings need to be taken in late summer or early autumn and a puff of sulphur on the cut parts will really help. Mair demonstrated how to take cuttings (sharp intake of breath from the audience when she started happily chopping at the lovely plant which she had brought with her!) and explained that once the cuttings are in the compost, they should root within six weeks. She uses a mixture of coir, garden soil and compost, just fairly constantly damp, but not wet. The coir helps with drainage but obviously makes the mixture dry out quicker so they need to be checked regularly. The best time to take cuttings is September which is the ideal time to be cutting them back, and then they should put on some growth before the winter dormant phase.  They can be cut back a little, usually three times between September and January. The theory goes that you need to get your cuttings in pots by the time the Malvern show comes around! Always take cuttings from the healthiest plants and, during either the growing or the dormant period, any dead leaves and flowers should be removed straight away. In the winter, the plants are happy in a cold greenhouse or porch, though if the temperature really plummets they may need to be covered. 

It is possible to take cuttings and root them in water, though adding a drop of orange juice will help and the water needs to be changed weekly. The best time to feed with a good all round plant feed from June onwards and potash can be given in December and January.

There are so many different types of Pelargonium; any single variety will do very well outside and the semi-double are happy inside or out. There are also many scented varieties, with scents all through the spectrum, spicy, sweet, flowery, sharp etc. Mair has some Pelargoniums, all of which are home bred and she hand pollinates them with a paintbrush.

Mair explained that she did have a problem last year with cuttings going black at the stem end, which turned out to be the water. A drop of orange juice in the water cured the problem, so the extra acidity did the trick.

Tracey thanked Mair for her talk and for bringing her beautiful Pelargoniums for the audience to buy.


Upcoming Events

At our next meeting on Wednesday, 16 July mixed-media artist Juliet Edgar is running a printing workshop. Juliet takes nature as her inspiration when creating using macrame, eco-printing and painting. It should be a fascinating evening.

Following that, our Summer Social will be held on Wednesday, 20 August at 7pm at ‘The Plough’ in Felingwm. We’ll be sharing the most delicious pizzas, and we will also be treated to a talk by Joseph Atkin, the former head gardener at Aberglasney Gardens on Dahlias.


‘A Year in Aberglasney Gardens’ by Nigel McCall

Nigel was originally a landscape and wildlife photographer, then about 11 years ago, looking for a local project, he realised that there was one on his doorstep in the form of Aberglasney Gardens. An agreement was made that if he could go into the gardens at any time of the day to take photos, he would share them for publicity purposes. The result is also his book ‘Aberglasney Gardens – A Calendar Year’.

Aberglasney is within the parish of Llangathen and was derelict and unloved until 1995 when a charity (the Aberglasney Restoration Trust) was set up especially to save the property. Fast forward to today and with the help of volunteers it is utterly fabulous – the gardens are constantly changing with new and exciting planting schemes, which makes them a photographer’s delight.

The first photographs we saw showed how the house sits within the land and then an early map describing the gardens without the buildings. We then began the year in photographs and saw the gardens in snow in December, with Viburnum giving colour and scent, three different varieties of Witch Hazel, and Christmas Box.

Nigel constantly looks to find the best version possible of each subject by adding small but necessary additions such as a flower with a spider web or a bit of moss attached. He takes many photos of a subject from all different angles and in changing light before being satisfied with the result. He initially looks for a suitable background before starting and mostly will take the photos from ground level, as low as possible, with a telephoto lens. The gardeners are very useful and will happily point out things of interest.

The first flowers (Crocus and Iris) to appear will be in the Alpinum area which gets sun throughout the day. Pictured opposite are a beautiful Hellebore with snowdrops captured in the Alpinum in February this year.

Nigel uses a process called focus stacking where he programmes the camera to take a number of shots at different focus points through the image to result in control both over the plant and the background. The background will be blurred so that there will be nothing distracting behind the image, it will take 15 to 30 photos rapidly to result in a good depth of focus of the image with a blurred background. By February there will be Pulmonaria and Willow coming to life, though this year the Camellias did not flower until February.

In March, there is more happening in the garden with Cuckoo flowers, Primula, Scilla, Cornus, different varieties of Narcissus and Crocus, Camellia, many types of Hellebore and more, and the woodland area is beginning to come alive.

This is a new look for the spring Cloister Garden in 2025. A lovely mixed Tulip border on the mansion terrace with Tulipa acuminata amongst the daisies & dandelions in the formal grass areas.

At the end of March and into April, there will be more Camillias, Prunus and Magnolia joining the displays along with Tulips and Fritillaries. It is unfortunate that the Magnolias will often be at the mercy of the weather and some varieties will not be seen every year (and some very rarely!). In April the butterflies will begin to appear to make the flowers even more beautiful and enhance any photographs. 

Nigel explained another photography technique called high dynamic range which accounts for the fact that the camera sees the world very literally and deals with the tones of colours (i.e. dark through to light) very differently.  A high dynamic range shot will take five shots starting with the area which is darkest then  through to the lightest and the five shots will merge on the inbuilt computer to result in the best version of the image. 

A wide angle lens is not used very often because it will lack definition and push the image away, but if you can get as close to the subject as possible it will improve the shot. Nigel tries to get combination photographs where possible and will have to spend quite a long time to get the shot just right, and again the background  has to be correct when considering colours and light. The Ninfarium at the back of the mansion provides cover and a different atmosphere for plants of a more exotic nature and different types of Orchids can be found. 

During several sections of the talk we were shown pictures of the gardens with musical accompaniment. We saw photos of  the latest work in the garden including the Aviaries which are in use for growing Squash and other vegetables. 

This is the display of Wisteria on the wall of the old cowshed with planters of daffodils. The photograph was taken on 17 April this year, when the wisteria arch would soon be coming into bloom.

Into June & July – roses are of course popular and can be found throughout the garden. Some varieties will continue until quite late in the year and there is a definitive rose garden which includes a beautiful rose arbour. The wildflower meadow no longer exists unfortunately, largely because they can be such a lot of work to get them at their best. 

Flowers of the Bromeliad, which is an epiphyte, will hopefully appear by September. This is a favourite month for Nigel when leaves will change colour, and Japanese anemones, vines  (particularly Vitis coignetiae ‘Crimson Glory’) and Hydrangea can be seen. September and October are excellent months for photography when the light can have a warmer hue and reflected light will be a useful addition to the photos. 

By October, Cyclamen and Cornus kousa (with their crimson fruits) are coming through and plants in the Alpinum also. One of the last flowers to be seen, which is actually a fruit, is Clerodendrum trichotomum or Harlequin glorybower. After the talk, Nigel answered any questions from the audience. He had also brought along for sale copies of his book ‘Aberglasney Gardens – A Calendar Year’, full of his stunning photographs.

Carol thanked Nigel for giving his very interesting talk and sharing the beautiful photographs which will hopefully inspire us to get into the garden with the usual tools plus a camera! 


Gardeners’ Question Time with Richard Bramley and Mabel of Farmyard Nurseries


Richard was well-known to many of us from previous entertaining talks at our meetings and from visits to his fabulous nursery in Llandysul. So after words of welcome to members and visitors from Dawn, our Chair, without further ado the audience launched into their questions. 


First up was Sandy, who asked how the changing climate was affecting Farmyard Nurseries, and how his business can help gardeners in that respect. Farmyard Nurseries is moving to peat-free compost, which is challenging. So far they are using peat-reduced compost (30% peat), although one of the issues is lack of government guidance. As much as possible is recycled, and bonfires are now banned. Generally, it would appear that the trend in the UK is for milder winters and wetter summers. Having said that, we all remember the fortnight-long cold spell in December 2022 when the temperatures dipped to -15! Richard lost many plants he wasn’t expecting to lose, including daffodils, snowdrops and Spiraeas. In the end he decided he couldn’t safeguard the Sarracenias, they would have to take their chances, and of all things they survived! So they are monitoring and adapting as they go. Richard is worried about water though. The nursery’s borehole is small; they have recently expanded to four water storage tanks, but that is really a drop in the ocean of what they need.

Talking of Sarracenias, Dawn had recently heard Richard speak on ‘On Your Farm’ on Radio 4 where he had mentioned a special feed for his pitcher plants when there are not enough flies about. Richard noted that there had been fewer flies about this summer than usual. A Sarracenia needs only about 3 flies to be viable but under normal circumstances they can consume many. One thing that some people do is to drop a fish food pellet into the pitchers. Richard uses a Floranid grass fertiliser which is very mild (2 teaspoons diluted in water in a washing-up liquid bottle) and a squirt into each pitcher.

Fiona brought up the subject of ground cover as a means of minimising bare soil and reducing weeding. What would Richard recommend? He agreed that bare soil just encourages weeds. Persicaria is a genus which has many good ground cover varieties. A less well-known form with small leaves is Persicaria vaccinifolium with a mass of pale-pink flower which goes on for months (and is also very effective in pots). For shade Chrysosplenium and also Pachysandra are very useful. Verbena corymbosa ‘Gravetye’ is good in sunny spots. There is also the tiny-leaved Gunnera magellanica for sun or light shade and damp soil. Ground-cover shrubs there are a-plenty: Potentilla, dwarf Hebes, Cotoneasters, Hydrangeas… There are over 200 Hydrangeas in the woodland garden at Farmyard Nurseries, which have really come into their own this year. You can also, depending on your soil,  consider alpines as well as herbs (marjoram and oregano varieties are excellent). Richard uses mint in his wildflower meadow, as it competes with the grasses and the flowers are loved by bees.

Another question related to the depth at which new shrubs should be planted. The general advice is to plant them at the level they were at in the pot. But what about roses? We were all agreed that we no longer knew what the advice is about roses, as it seems to have changed. It always used to be that the graft point or union should be above the ground – now you sometimes see advice to plant it 4” deep. Good advice can generally be found from reputable rose growers such as David Austin and Peter Beales. Received wisdom does change over the years – delicate and very accurate rose pruning is now often replaced by using hedge cutters. A tip from Richard is never to prune your roses hard before March (before that your hard-pruned roses may be affected by winter die-back).

Ruth had grown some Echinacea plants from seed which were now a good size, and she was wondering whether to plant them out now or wait until spring. Richard warned her that generally Echinacea don’t like it in this part of the world, although you can sometimes get away with the standard E. purpurea or alba (which happily Ruth’s are). The essential thing is keep Echinacea dry through the winter as it doesn’t like the combination of wet and cold.

On the subject of seeds – there was a question about hollyhocks and whether the stems should be collected and hung up to dry inside, or whether to leave them on the plants in the garden. On clarifying that the seed was green, and therefore not yet ripe, he recommended both courses of action. It seemed to be generally agreed that for some plants such as hollyhocks and also grasses that it works to cut the stems with the seedpods still attached and lay them down directly on pots or on planting trays/guttering with perlite.

Julian asked Richard to share his two greatest successes and his worst failure during the life of the nursery. Richard replied that the very best thing to have happened was his daughter Ruth, and the worst thing that had happened was the long Covid that Ruth had suffered from, destroying her future as a potential Olympic athlete. The silver lining was that Ruth had turned turned to plants during that difficult time, in particular house plants, and now she runs that part of the nursery. The second best thing to have happened was getting to Chelsea on the first attempt! If he is honest, there had been lots of highs and Richard would do it all over again. One of his favourite things is to wander around the garden and nursery of an evening when everyone has gone home, and to see what has been achieved. Richard’s staff are a loyal and dedicated team, and he recognises that he owes them so much.

Next, a question about a damson – it’s a shrub variety, about 6’ high, from the Midlands. In six years, it has not produced a single damson! Richard said that stone fruits can be slow to get going. He asked whether it flowered well (it doesn’t), and flowers late, after the apples. Richard’s suggestion was to make the damson think that it’s dying, by chopping a circle around its roots. The other alternative is to to ring bark it, the ring being half-an-inch wide. A follow-on question involved two saplings, a wild plum and a sunset cherry, which had been given to a member in pots. Where should they be planted? Somewhere with plenty of sun and not too windy. Still on the subject of damsons, a questioner had a damson which bears very little fruit, but two seedlings have arisen nearby – would they be likely to fruit? Over seedlings you have no control, so theoretically they might. The closer to the species they are, the more reliably they are likely to fruit.

Sheena mentioned her trouble getting Japanese anemones to establish in her garden. Richard replied that it seems to be pot luck with Japanese anemones – they either like you (when they can grow very strongly) or they don’t. Erigeron karvinskianus is another. 

Gordon asked about a 1’-high Eucalyptus with a single stem that he had bought for £3 – how could you resist?! The problem with Eucalyptus, particularly on a single stem, is that they have a tendency to blow over. To keep the juvenile foliage, you should cut it back hard every year, making it less likely to blow over. When cut back like that, Eucalyptus can make a great evergreen screen. Plants that generally do well in the damp soil in Wales, and can be good screens, are willows, Cornus, birch and poplar. 

Carol had a question about her young ‘Bardsey Island’ apple tree, on which the lower leaves are developing brown and blotchy patches. She also has another Welsh apple, ‘Pig aderyn’, which is smaller but is doing better. The ‘Bardsey Island’ is planted close to a soakaway, and Carol wondered whether that might be affecting it. Richard thought not, unless the soakaway was making the soil very damp. He noted that smaller trees will often establish better. ‘Bardsey Island’ is a superb apple though. He added that he had quite a number of them, and they hardly fruited. The damp climate of Wales very often led to canker in apple trees. There was some debate about whether you can, or cannot, grow apples in Wales. The Club’s previous speaker in September had definitely been of the view that you can; Richard’s view is that you can’t – but sometimes you can!

Sandy asked about tall plants for a lined pond which she has recently made deeper.  Options suggested were Iris, Typha minima (a miniature bulrush), plants in the Scirpus family, Pontaderia cordata, and even Equisetum. Apparently dayliles and Schisostylus also do will in water.

The final question came from Ruth, who asked about some young rhododendrons she had planted in a bed where Verbena bonariensis were becoming quite prolific. Richard was of the view that the rhododendrons wouldn’t suffer, as the Verbena are light and airy, and rhododendrons like shade, but that Ruth should just keep an eye on them. He did note that V. bonariensis will seed everywhere. Also, the young rhododendrons may well have come from Holland where they would have been forced into bud, so they may naturally pause flowering for a year or two. In fact, it would be a good thing to debud them next year, to ensure that they grow into good, strong bushes.

Farmyard Nurseries organise a Gardening Weekend every winter in Llandysul. In 2025 it will be organised for the days around 16 February. It’s a fabulous event that certainly brightens up a dreary time of year with talks, a central display and plants for sale. A date for everyone’s diary!

That brought to an end a very entertaining and informative hour, during which Mabel had befriended anyone in the audience she suspected of harbouring food about their person! Richard was thanked by Dawn and by an enthusiastic round of applause from the audience, and everyone made a beeline for the many beautiful plants for sale that Richard had brought to the meeting and arranged in a mouthwatering display.

Christmas Social; NGS Donations for 2023

This year’s Cothi Gardeners Christmas Social was held at Ystrad Nurseries near Llandovery. It was, for a change, a sunny afternoon, the alpacas greeting us as our cars pulled in. We all arrived in time to have a good browse around the nursery before the demonstration 

Julie began the demonstration by telling us a bit about the history of the nursery and timber yard, particularly since 2016, when John and Laura Morgan bought Ystrad, having seen the potential to bring together her background in running a nursery and John’s expertise in the timber business. Since then they have grown the business significantly, and from an original staff of three at Ystrad in 2016, there are now over 30. Ystrad Nurseries itself now also has florist Sian on site, and has embarked on phased improvements, beginning with the car park and entrance. Julie herself has worked here since 2020, having previously been a primary school teacher.

First we saw how to build up an arrangement that could be adapted either for the table, or for placing on graves, using a square block of oasis in a circular base,  Starting at the bottom, it is best to avoid prickly holly and to create a base layer with fronds from spruce or cypress. The holly can go in as the next layer. Julie recommends pieris for the centre of the arrangement, which at this time of year has flower buds. To add berries and ensure they show up well, take off any surrounding leaves. When adding skimmia do the same and strip the leaves to highlight the purple flower. For a table arrangement, you can then place a candle-holder with candle in the centre.

Julie then explained how to wire items onto an arrangement, such as dried orange slices, and also demonstrated bow-making.

After that, we turned to wreaths. Nowadays moss is less favoured, and people are choosing straw-based rings for the base as a more sustainable option. The straw rings, once purchased, can be re-used the following year if allowed to dry out and stored safely. The greenery can be fixed in place with either wire or twine, using small clusters of foliage as you go, again starting with spruce, but incorporating a range of foliage such as osmanthus, choisya, skimmia, leucothoe and pieris. From this you can then adapt the decoration depending on whether the wreath is for a grave, a door or table arrangement.

After thanking Julie for her interesting and informative presentation, everyone had an appetite for the delicious and plentiful tea that Ystrad Nurseries had provided. We weren’t going to need supper after that, and a grand time was had by all!


NGS Donations in 2023

Cothi Gardeners Club are fortunate to have among our members John and Helen from Ty’r Maes and Julian and Fiona from Gelli Uchaf who open their gardens for the National Garden Scheme in Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. Across the two counties as a whole there were 3,514 visitors, of which 2,130 were from Open Days and 1,384 from By Appointment visits. That is a return to the visitor numbers seen in 2019 and previously. In 2023 the total raised for charity was £26,638 (up from £20,300 in 2022) – a fantastic increase! 

In total the National Garden Scheme has been able to donate £3,403,960 to beneficiaries in 2023. This record amount is testament to the hard work and dedication of all those who open their gardens to the public and all the volunteers who contribute.