The Underclass: A Gardener’s Best Friends

Julian Wormald, one of our members, returned as a speaker in March to talk to us about bulbs, corms and tubers to lift our spirits from October to March – something much needed given our recent experience of the dullest February on record in Wales. Over 30-odd years, Julian and Fiona have created a renowned garden at Gelli Uchaf which incorporates many of the geophytes featured in Julian’s talk.


Putting together the slides for the talk from photographs of the garden taken over many years brought home to Julian a number of things: how essential winter bulbs are to boosting one’s mood and to getting us out into the garden during what are often dreary months; bulb populations aren’t static, and while some survive for ages others can fade away over time; winter bulbs rarely get the attention they deserve in the media, but in our generally temperate part of the world, we’re lucky that gardens can really be full of flowers and colour interest for most months. If we include bulbs, we can cram many plants into the same area to have a succession of interest over many months.

To give some context to the garden, Gelli Uchaf is 250 metres above sea level and 20 miles from the Irish Sea; this usually mitigates really low winter temperatures – which are occasionally, but rarely, below minus 10 degrees C. There is high annual rainfall concentrated in the autumn/winter months (now typically over 2 metres annually), at least 50 % over the average for Wales, and not an awful lot of sunshine. But it is quite a steep sloping hillside site, which means that for most of the garden, even heavy rain will drain away quickly. This is a huge advantage for many winter/spring bulbs.

A common theme in the talk is the interaction between pollinators (generally honey bees) and the geophyte flowers, resulting in the production of seed which is a good way of increasing drifts of flower, as well as providing nectar and pollen for the bees.

Julian began with Lilium speciosum album – an introduction from Japan – which starts flowering before October but goes into October and November. The white flowers go well with autumn leaf colour; it is planted with other members of the understory such as tulips, crocus and bluebells providing a succession of colour.

Julian and Fiona bought about 20 bulbs in 2013 after seeing it in flower in Aberglasney Gardens; since then, however, they have been unable to obtain any more. This can be a problem with bulbs – particular varieties can drift in and out of fashion and disappear from bulb catalogues. The moral of the story is that if you like a particular variety, get your skates on and order more quickly! 


Next up – Cyclamen hederifolium. It is  one of the most reliably long-lived of any flowering plant in the garden at Gelli Uchaf – tubers can survive for over 100 years, becoming larger over time.  Several of the original plants were brought to Wales from Julian and Fiona’s previous garden in Bristol and are still thriving and growing in size.

It’s the best plant for planting beneath deciduous shrubs/trees or even evergreens, doing what many geophytes do – becoming dormant in early spring, as these areas become drier and shadier, and then pushing up their wonderful shuttlecock flowers in early August, continuing into late October in most years. The fact that the flowers hang down mean that they’re always open, leaving the critical parts of the flower always available for pollination in any brief weather window moments when pollinators can reach them. The marbled leaves make excellent ground cover. 

C. hederifolium is succeeded by C. coum in November. It is frost hardy and copes with snow, but it may need more light than C. hederifolium. The tubers and leaves (more rounded than heart-shaped) are smaller than C. hederifolium. Both varieties with suitable pollinators will make seed, and once the population reaches a certain size they will freely spread themselves around. Both cyclamens are slug- and disease-free and make excellent woodland plants.

Moving into January, sometimes even in late December, we head into the Crocus season. Crocus, however, have a major flaw, which most gardeners hoping for long-term success will be aware of: the corms are loved by squirrels and rodents.

The least favoured are C. tommasinianus forms. This is wonderful, because tommasinianus forms are also the most appealing flowers to honey bees and early emerged bumblebee queens, and so set masses of seed in a good year when our wet weather has some respite, and flowers can open for long enough to be pollinated. They should be planted where they will catch the sun for best pollination results. 

Scattering the seed is a great way of multiplying C. tommasinianus. At Gelli Uchaf there are now Crocus in many areas of the garden, and Julian is even trying to establish them in the wildflower meadow. Crocus sieberi ‘Firefly’ is also not so tasty to rodents – it is early and hardy, although Julian is not sure it sets seed.

Moving on to snowdrops – these were the first flowers planted in the garden at Gelli Uchaf over 30 years ago. It started with a few clumps of Galanthus nivalis, dug from Julian and Fiona’s garden in Bristol. In turn, they’d come from Fiona’s parents’ garden in Shropshire. They, in turn, had collected them from a much older farmhouse on the banks of the River Severn where they were ‘naturalised’. This is what happens with snowdrops, across Europe – people love them so much as symbols of hope in the depth of winter, so will plant a few, and then lift and divide them and give them to friends.

Over time, a few more snowdrop varieties were acquired, coinciding with Julian’s interest in honey bees and the realisation that growing snowdrops (and crocus!) close to honey bee colonies could benefit both.

And so began the Welsh Historic Snowdrop Hunt! This project involved Julian visiting locations associated with pre-1850 properties, where snowdrops are naturalized, and where there is a written or word-of-mouth history associated with the site. Most ‘naturalised’ populations of snowdrops are quite localized into island communities, and many have significant variations in flowering season as well as what they looked like. Some of these different snowdrop types now grow in Gelli Uchaf! 

In addition, Julian has added to the collection with various named snowdrop forms, to try to establish which do well in our West Wales climate.


They now grow in most parts of the garden – from woodland areas, with semi/deep summer shade, to near full sun, or even in grass beneath deciduous trees. Good forms will survive in most of these locations. But they undoubtedly seem to do best where associated with deciduous trees or shrubs, in semi or deep shade, which is damp but not waterlogged over winter, and which dries out more during the spring/summer.

Julian had plenty of tips for those wanting to establish drifts of snowdrops at home: 

  • Start planting them when you’re young if you can, but remember it’s never too late! 
  • Avoid the very expensive or new cultivars – if they’re cheaper, or have been around for decades, it’s much more likely that they are vigorous and reliable, and best to plant them in the green. Start with any that have, or come recommended by a local snowdrop fan. 
  • Plant them in optimum conditions beneath deciduous trees and shrubs, where there will be plenty of leaf litter to encourage fungal interactions with the bulb’s root system.
  • Be prepared to lift, split and move growing clumps, replanting them in twos, threes or more into new locations. This will give quicker and better results than planting singly. Do this any time from when the bulb shoots first emerge, to when the foliage is dying back, if the weather and soil are damp.

Plants that associate well with snowdrops (along with Crocus and Cyclamen coum) include: Scilla mischtschenkoana, Scilla bithynica, Chionodoxa forbesii ‘Pink Giant’, Leucojum vernum.

In the same family as Galanthus/snowdrops/ – the Amaryllidaceae – are Narcissi/daffodils. The latter have a number of unique features. They are the only flower with a corona/trumpet; they have a unique way of preventing self-pollination; and they have a unique stem structure to help them support the comparatively large flower. 

Daffodils were popular between the 1500s and the mid 1600s – in a book published in 1629 daffodils accounted for 100 out of the 1000 plants listed. They then fell out of favour for the next 200 years; however, now there are about 32,000 named daffodils (as opposed to 3,000 named tulips).

Daffodils are, of course, the national flower of Wales and can be relied upon (mostly but not always) to be in flower for St David’s Day on 1 March. The earliest daffodil in bloom is always ‘Rijnveldt’s Early Sensation’, and ‘February Gold’, as its name implies, is also early. Another early daffodil is the Tenby daffodil – Narcissus pseudonarcissus obvallaris – and the only one native to Wales. It is a bright yellow and very vigorous, although it can sometimes flower poorly. The other daffodil native to the UK , the Lenten Lily, is Narcissus pseudonarcissus lobularis.

This latter daffodil is a good producer of seed, unlike most daffodils (Julian reckons that less than 5% of the daffodil varieties at Gelli Uchaf ever set any seed). It takes about 5 years from seed to flowering, and has been a successful, if slow, method of multiplying this variety, including on the sloping wild-flower meadow. 


With careful selection of cultivars, you can have daffodils in flower in the garden from before March until early May – the last to flower are usually the poeticus varieties (which need a moth to pollinate them). The early variety ‘Brunswick’ is a very good ‘do-er’; the cyclamineus hybrids (eg ‘Jetfire’) do well in wetter conditions. Julian also mentioned ‘Damson’ and primrose-yellow ‘Helford Dawn’ as varieties that he likes.

Like snowdrops, daffodils can be transplanted in the green – although as the bulbs are bigger and deeper, it is harder work – a tub space is very useful for this.

Cotehele Garden in Cornwall is a very good place to see a superb display of daffodils in flower, with many heritage varieties among them. There are two main suppliers of old daffodils – Scamps Daffodils and Croft 16 – but you need to place your orders in spring!

Julian concluded by inviting us to remember the ‘Underclass’ and to enjoy the journey. He had created a display of lots of different varieties of daffodils for us to view, and also brought for sale a range of snowdrops and other plants.

Fiona and Julian’s garden will be open for one weekend each in April, May and June. Details of opening with more information about the garden, and specific guides to snowdrops and daffodils which do well in our part of the world are on the Garden Impressionists website.

Bibliography

Smithers, Peter. Adventures of a Gardener.

Ruksans, Janis. Crocuses A Complete Guide to the Genus.

Kilpatrick, Jane and Harmer, Jennifer. The Galanthophiles – 160 Years of Snowdrop Devotees.

Parkinson, Anna. Nature’s Alchemist. John Parkinson, Herbalist to Charles I.

Parkinson, John. Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris.

Kingsbury, Noel. Daffodil.

O’Neill, Helen. Daffodil – The Biography of a Flower.

‘Bees Are Amazing!’; New Committee; April Meeting

‘Bees Are Amazing!’ by Sandy Halstead

Sandy has been a beekeeper for eight years now, and has never lost her enthusiasm for them, in fact it plainly just increases.  She began by explaining that in this country we have the North European bees, which used to include the black bee species, although these have now died out, along with some other previously commonly found species. We need to conserve bees now, their numbers in general are declining and they are amongst the most useful pollinators.

Within a hive, the different types of bees are workers, drones and of course, a queen. At the beginning of the summer season, the hive will increase by 100/day and by July, by 2000/day. In a healthy hive there can be anything from 20,000 to 80,000 bees and a single queen will be the sole egg layer. Royal jelly, which is a nutrient rich solution derived from propolis, is fed to the queen and the larvae by the workers although the queen will only ever be fed this for her life. Queen cells are not made in the same way as the worker and drone cells (which are hexagonal), they are larger and hang generally at the bottom of a frame. When the queen emerges, she will have a stinger and, if she should need to use it, will not die as the other bees do. If more than one queen emerges from the hive they will fight until one of them dies.

Drones are male bees and they do no work and expect to be fed by the female worker bees. Their only job is to  mate with a virgin queen, which they do in mid-air during a nuptial flight, and they die shortly after mating. They are bigger than workers, their cells are larger and they cannot sting. Multiple drones will mate with the queen, ensuring the longevity of hive numbers. She will store their sperm in her spermatheca for future use. Whereas the worker bees have specific jobs to do right from the point where they emerge from their cells, drone bees don’t do anything except look out for a passing queen but on mating successfully, will leave their sex organs inside her and die, so it’s not such a happy outcome for him. When the queen has had her mating flight and returns to the hive, she will be cleaned and fed and her egg laying duty will begin within two or three days. She also plays a crucial role in regulating the colony through pheromones, which will determine the temperament of the bees and influences social behaviour. 

The workers will emerge from their cells after nine days and their first job will be to clean their cell, ready for re-use. The process of growth will take approximately 21 days from the egg, which grows  into a larva then a pupa and finally an adult. They will then for two or three days be employed in housekeeping duties, after which they will be a nursery attendant, taking any mess away, then an attendant to the queen. After this a worker will be a wax maker then a guard bee (warding off any possible threats) and finally a honey maker, accepting nectar from foragers, putting it in a cell and capping it off. After this the honey will never deteriorate. Foragers will collect pollen, water, nectar and propolis which comes from trees and they will carry in the collected pollen on their legs. 

Foragers will communicate sources of food by doing a “waggle dance” which the other bees can interpret as to how far, which direction etc. 

Swarming of bees from the hive is a natural solution to make another colony, which is likely to be if the hive is overcrowded and there is an abundance of food. .A new queen will have been made and the old queen will take a proportion of the bees off to find another home; scout bees will be sent off to look – it could be in a tree initially and then they’ll find a small opening somewhere, with accessible water nearby, maybe in a wall where they can establish another hive and start to make wax for the new cells. The new queen will remain in the original hive. 

Worker bees will look constantly for sources of forage, starting in January with snowdrops and making the most of tree pollen. The bees will put different types of pollen of diverse colours in each cell. 

Sandy finished by answering questions on bees:

  • There is a good amount of reading on the subject available; also there is a novel “The Bee” which was recommended by one member of the audience.
  • Life span of bees – winter bees will live for around 6 months but in the summer, because of the workload, bees will only last 6 to 8 weeks. 
  • Construction of hives – generally they are made from cedar wood because it weathers well, but there are now polystyrene hives, which are warmer.
  • Wasps – will construct their own nests or nest in a hole in the ground, excavating quite large amounts of soil.
  • Catching a swarm – can be done more easily if they are in a tree, ideally the queen is caught first so that the rest of the bees will follow.

Sandy was thanked for a very interesting talk and slide show, which everyone enjoyed and which sparked quite a bit of discussion afterwards. 


Following the AGM in February, Cothi Gardeners’ Club has a new Committee:

ChairTracey Parkin
TreasurerRob Usher
SecretaryCarol Cook
Programme Co-ordinatorCarol Carpenter
Website AdminSheena Wakefield

Members: please remember that Sheena welcomes contributions for the website or ideas for new content. You can also view upcoming club talks and external events on the website.

As a reminder, the next talk on 16th April will be ‘Aberglasney: A Calendar Year’ by Nigel McCall. Nigel’s book of the same name will be available for purchase (£20, please bring cash) – it features his beautiful photographs of the gardens through the seasons, with plant identification by Joseph Atkin (former Head Gardener at Aberglasney). The book’s foreword has been written by Chris Beardshaw. Note that the meeting will start 15 minutes earlier than usual, at 7.15pm.